Why Are There So Many Cats In Istanbul?

Have you ever realized that you are being surrounded by cats?

Not one cat.

Not two cats.

Cats. Everywhere.

You arrive in Istanbul thinking you have come to see Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar and the Bosphorus.

The cats, however, have other plans.

They are already there.

And somehow, they seem to know exactly where they belong.

The cat of Hagia Sophia

My first suspicion that Istanbul's cats know something we don't began around Hagia Sophia.

You can admire the enormous dome, Byzantine mosaics and centuries of history...

…and then suddenly notice a cat sitting nearby as if it personally supervised the construction.

Some cats can be found around the gardens and surrounding streets, while others confidently occupy the areas around the entrance and nearby courtyards.

And they have absolutely no interest in rushing.

Tourists rush.

Guides rush.

Photographers rush.

The cat?

The cat sits.

Watching.

Judging.

Possibly thinking:

"Another human taking pictures of me.

There is even a famous feline association with Hagia Sophia through Gli, the beloved cat who became internationally known for spending much of her life around the monument.

So perhaps Hagia Sophia doesn't really belong only to history.

Perhaps it belongs to the cats too.

Cats in the shops?

Then I discovered something even more surprising.

Cats in shops.

Walk through Istanbul's old neighborhoods and bazaars and you may find a cat sitting comfortably inside a shop as though it has worked there for twenty years.

One may be sleeping beside carpets.

Another may be sitting among souvenirs.

Another may be positioned perfectly near the entrance, apparently responsible for welcoming customers.

And they don't look like street cats who accidentally wandered inside.

They look like employees.

The only problem is that I have yet to see one wearing a name badge.

Perhaps the manager is hiding it.

Cats on the seaside rocks

Then there are the Bosphorus and Marmara seaside cats.

Walk along seafront and keep your eyes open.

You may see cats sitting on the rocks, benches beside the water.

Some sit there watching the ferries.

Others watch fishermen.

Others simply stare at the Bosphorus as if they are contemplating the meaning of life.

I suspect they already know the answer.

Fish.

Where should you look for them?

If you are a cat lover, Istanbul is basically a giant open-air cat museum.

And unlike most museums, the exhibits move.

Here are some places where Niobe recommends keeping your eyes open:

🐾 Sultanahmet

Around Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet Square and the surrounding old streets, cats often appear in gardens, quiet corners, walls and doorways.

Take your time.

Look underneath benches.

Look beside old stone walls.

Look near cafes.

And occasionally look behind you.

There is a reasonable chance a cat is already following you.

🐾 Grand Bazaar & surrounding streets

Around the Grand Bazaar and the smaller streets nearby, cats can often be found sitting around shops, courtyards and quiet corners.

Some appear to have excellent business instincts.

They know exactly when tourists arrive.

They know exactly when food appears.

And they have somehow mastered the art of looking hungry immediately after being fed.

🐾 Galata & Karakoy

Walk around Galata Tower, the small streets of Galata and down toward Karakoy, and you will find plenty of feline residents.

They sit on steps.

They sleep beside doors.

They occupy cafe chairs.

They watch people climbing the hills.

And occasionally they look at you as if to say:

"Why are you walking up that hill? There is clearly a better way."

They may be right.

🐾 Balat & Fener

The colorful streets of Balat and Fener are another wonderful place for cat lovers.

Look around old houses, stairways, walls, small cafes and quiet side streets.

Here, cats seem to match the neighborhood perfectly.

Colorful houses.

Old doors.

Laundry hanging above the street.

And a cat sitting in exactly the right place to make your photograph look like you planned it.

You didn't.

The cat did.

🐾 Kadıkoy & Moda

Cross to the Asian side and the cat population certainly hasn't disappeared.

Around Kadıkoy and Moda, cats can be found in parks, streets, cafes, gardens and along the waterfront.

Moda is particularly enjoyable for a slow walk.

And by "slow," I mean the speed of a cat who has just discovered a sunny spot.

🐾 Uskudar

Along the waterfront and quieter streets of Uskudar, keep an eye around the parks, walls and seaside areas.

The view toward the historic peninsula is spectacular.

But don't be surprised if you end up photographing a cat instead.

The cat will probably consider this completely reasonable.

But why are Istanbul's cats so... polite?

This is what really surprised me.

Many of Istanbul's cats are remarkably comfortable around people.

They don't necessarily run away.

They sit calmly beside pedestrians.

They sleep in front of shops.

They accept a little attention.

Some will even walk up to you as if you have an appointment.

And occasionally, one will simply climb onto your lap.

Somebody must have taught them manners

Sometimes I honestly wonder whether Istanbul has a secret Cat School of Public Behaviour.

Lesson one:

Don't panic when tourists take photographs.

Lesson two:

Never block the pavement completely.

Lesson three:

Sleep wherever there is sunshine.

Lesson four:

Accept food from locals and tourists

Lesson five:

If a human sits down, immediately investigate whether their lap is comfortable.

Lesson six:

Never reveal where you found the best fish.

That information is confidential.

Of course, the reality is more beautiful than my imaginary cat school.

Istanbul has a long tradition of people caring for neighborhood animals. Residents and shopkeepers often provide food and water, and cats have become deeply woven into everyday life in the city.

They aren't simply visitors.

They are part of Istanbul.

Perhaps the cats really do know the secret

After meeting so many of them, I started thinking about my original question.

Do Istanbul's cats know something we don't?

Maybe they know where the best Bosphorus views are.

Maybe they know which bakery has the freshest breakfast.

Maybe they know which alley is quietest.

Maybe they know when the ferry is arriving.

Or perhaps they simply understand something humans have forgotten.

You don't always need a plan.

Sometimes you just need to sit in the sunshine.

Watch the boats.

Listen to the city.

Enjoy a little attention.

And if somebody offers you a comfortable lap...

take it.

That may actually be the secret of Istanbul.

Follow the cat. You never know where it will lead you.

So next time you visit Istanbul, don't only follow the map.

Follow your curiosity.

Follow the little streets.

Look into courtyards.

Look beside ancient walls.

Look around cafes and shops.

Look along the Bosphorus rocks.

And, most importantly...

follow the cat.

Because the cat may know Istanbul better than any guidebook.

And if one suddenly starts walking ahead of you, don't worry.

Perhaps it is taking you somewhere special.

Or perhaps it is simply going home for lunch.

Either way...

I would follow it.

Would you like to discover Istanbul through Niobe's eyes?

Come with me beyond the famous monuments and discover the little streets, hidden corners, fascinating history, local life...

…and, of course, the cats who seem to own the whole city.

Do you want to follow me in my explorations?

Niobe_